Wednesday, October 10, 2007

When water and sand collide

When the big swells hit J Bay, waves washed up onto the sand dunes at high tide, and the retreating water took buckets of sand back with it into the lineup. The result --- numerous super shallow, sandy sections scattered from the top of the Supertubes lineup all the way down to the base of the point.

Here is an image of what you get when you mix a shallow sandbar with a good swell, coupled with a talented and fearless water photographer, and finally sprinkled on top with one of the best tube riders on earth: a tiny miracle, captured for our enjoyment, courteousy of the Indian Ocean, Allan Van Gysen, and Mr. Kelly Slater. Photo courtesy of AvG via ZigZag via Deon.

And here is the beast that made this moment possible.

Friday, October 5, 2007

When the surf finally dropped....

Well, after the series of storms made their way past the tip of Africa, the waves calmed down, affording us the opportunity to visit some of our favorite places close by before packing up and heading on to Cape Town. Stuey and Helen decided to load up the cooler, the kids, Moni, and me, and launch the boat to watch the sunset from the dunes behind J Bay.

Being a good South African, Stuey is handy with an open fire, a fishing rod, a bottle opener, an outboard and attached skiff, and various other "man-tasks." Hels and Moni, on the other hand, just sit back and look pretty and let the boys be boys.

We landed at the base of a giant sand dune, where Moni and Lolo raced to the top to watch the sunset.

Surfing with Friends

One of life's joys is sharing good waves with friends. Here are images of some of our pals whom we surfed with, who inspired us, and with whom we love to share the ocean.

Our legendary host and good friend Stuey, one of J Bay's hardest chargers and a stylish goofyfooter (below).

The Wolfman, a J Bay local since the early '80's and one of the spots primary enforcers. Respect this man; he has shed blood and sweat to protect this wave.

Some guy with gloves named Kelly, enjoying a moment of effortless glide.

Deon, local artist, friendly neighbor, closet gardener/chef/yogi/karate expert.

Unknown sap lucks into one of the best waves I've ever seen -- look at the lip line!

True pointbreak gliders.